To the End of the World 2006

This year we crossed the Bay of Biscay to Santander and made our way thru central Spain and Portugal to 'the end of the world' as Cape San Vincent was known. At least it was until the explorers left this most SW point in Europe to discover South America - and I have the T-shirt to prove it.

We then hurried past the Algarve to re-enter Spain in order to visit the beautiful city of Seville. Don't miss the weird mix of pilgrimage and wild west town of Almonte, if you are ever down that way. But boy was it hot, so time to start back North but not before visiting Gibraltar, that bizarre bit of England with its own M&S and Safeways.

We spent some time relaxing on the Costa del Sol, bypassed Costa Blanca by following part of Don Quixote trail inland and on to Benicassim on the Costa Alzehria which was one of our favourite stops. Our first ever trip abroad in 1969 was with a caravan to Camping Cala Gogo on the Costa Brava so was an obvious destination for old times sake. However we did not stop there as it was too windy and steep for a couple of old Twurps.

After 8 weeks away it was time to return home so we took the direct route north over the spectacular new Millau bridge, with a short stopover in the Gorge du Tarn, before finally reaching the English channel at Fecamp. A final drive up the coast and over the Somme to Calais and we were nearly back home in Leicester.

Dover

We crossed back to England from Calais to Dover with white cliffs in the sunshine.

Amiens and the Somme

We parked up in Amiens to see the cathedral and take in a little of the Somme. We stopped in a nice new aire overnight.

Channel Coast at Fecamp

We headed for the nearest coast to get away from the oppressive heat and arrived at a motorhome aire at Fecamp.

Loire Valley

It was getting very hot inland so we just stopped for two nights at an English owned site by an old mill on the Loire. Very well organised like a CC site with a wine tasting eveing.

We saw the biggest stag beetle ever and I caught a perch in the river. We had a drive around the wine growing area and spent a while at a local river festival.

Woodpeckers in Massif Central

We stopped at a site in the mountains just of the main road and pitched under a tree. Much to my surprise there was a woodpeckers nest high up in the tree and we saw the young ones being fed and fly the nest.

Gorges du Tarn

It was a nice drive up the A45 autoroute and over the spectacular Millau bridge which spans the Tarn. We left the A45 to stop at a site in gorges. We had a great pitch by the river and saw some otters for the first time ever. We drove up the gorge to see the scenery before doubling back to view the bridge from below and continue on our way north.

France - Llanquedoc coast

We stopped for a night on the coast in France before starting the drive home over the Massif Central. It was a smart site in a smart yachty resort.

Port Lligat - Dahli's house

We diverted to Cadaques and then Port Lligat to see Salvador Dahli's house in the picturesque little harbour. Unfortunately it only opened for half a day and we were too late but resolved to go again when we have the chance.

San Pere de Pescador

Our last site in Spain was on the L'Amforma site near San Pere de Pescador and was another large well-equipped site with plenty to see around including large roman settlement of Emporium. Went there with friends from 'across the road' and introduced them to some new activities (for them) like walking, shopping for Spanish food (they are still eating food they brought from England) and getting into the museum for free as we are European pensioners.

From the newspaper it looks like it is hotter in England than Costa Brava at the moment - in fact it has clouded over today and is quite cool at only 70deg.  The World cup started today and Germany did well in their first game as we could tell by the cheering from all over the site.

We walked into San Pere and back down the river and beach, an unscheduled 5-mile hike as it turned out. It was quite windy and amazing to see so many surfers doing acrobatics over the water. We then watched England’s first match in the bar – it was rubbish - so we took lot of stick from the Germans on site.  Many of the English, Dutch and German football fans had decorated their pitches with national flags and football tack but it was all very friendly rivalry.

A day on the Costa Brava

I took the road to Callella but could not find anywhere to park and it all seemed a bit touristy and busy so went on Lafranca and Tamariu - 'an ideal place for a quite holiday' according to the travel guide. Both places were actually bursting with Spanish and Germans and we found the reason was it was a holiday in Catalunya so all the locals were on the beach. Its also a two week school holiday in Germany so they were here to swell the numbers of Neverlanders We Brits were well outnumbered.

Between the two villages is a lighthouse and mirador (viewpoint) which gives a view of the whole of the Costa Brava. It was at the top of one of the steepest hills/cliffs the Twurp has had to contend with - 1st gear for the last 100yds. Right at the top a German decided to reverse out of the parking area across the road. Either he moved quick or I was going to have to try a hill start on a 1 in 5 - fortunately he moved. Certainly was a superb if rather hazy view point - lots more photos to sort out.

Went on to find the camping cheque site near the pretty village of Pals, took a wrong turn and ended up literally driving thru a beach side restaurant, also packed, and another hair raising hill out of the little cove. Same weekenders at Pals so we just lay on the beach till the crowds had dispersed before finding the site. It was a big friendly site with lots of facilities and the right one this time, so we found a pitch near some young Germans (in IT) who were celebrating a 'big' birthday. Spent a pleasant couple of days there and one day walked back via the cliff path and nudist beach to the same restaurant we had 'driven thru' earlier. This time the beach was quiet again and we passed a large English family group trying to make a picnic lunch without a knife. We were able to save the day by lending them one that we had with us for our picnic.

Palamos

Bit further north now at Palamos for two nights to see a bit of the old Costa Brava. Quiet site (but wrong one again) with a lot of youngsters on PGL adventure holidays. Good 5 mile round trip walk to La Fosca beach and the old port in Palamos where we had a very nice Sunday lunch at a fish restaurant on the harbour.

Toasted sandwiches for supper on 'George' and off tomorrow to find another (cheaper) site.

Costa Brava

I circumnavigated Barcelona on the AP7 peage (it cost about €10 but well worth it) and we soon started to see mountains again, this time Pyrenean foothills that make up much of the Costa Brava district. Hit the typical rocky coast coast at Blanes and made our way up the coast thru the once popular resorts of Tossa del Mar and Lloret del Mar to Playa d'Aro. We were here to find Camping Cala GoGo where we came with Rita and Reg 35 years ago. Seemed much the same but decided not to stay there as its a steep terraced site and happened to be very windy.

Went off to find the €10 a night CC site we had identified earlier as it was getting a bit late and soon settled in. But it was not the site were expecting and had to pay €20 a night and wear a security wrist band. However it was nice site on the beach by the marina and handy to walk into Playa d'Aro for shopping. We had a Chinese lunch on the promenade for €6 each, made a pleasant change even if it was a bit touristy.

Costa Dorada

As we head north the camp sites are getting bigger and better. The camping La Torre del Sol boasts a cinema, disco, Jacuzzi and two huge swimming pools. Rosemary went off to explore and came back having had her hair cut - Spanish style in the site hairdressers! Serve her right for poking her head round the door. The site is on the beach but you pay €3 extra for the front 3 rows - saves you walking 30 yds! I guess we will be here at least a couple of days to find everything. The best part is that these last two sites are cost us just £10 per night.

Must get Rosemary a gin and tonic now to help her recover from her hair cut.

Neverlanders (as we call people from Holland) told us that it had been snowing in Germany and Switzerland and to stay low (meaning south) but we decided to press on north.

Benicassim - Costa Azahar

We were on our way to the Costa Brava up the coast road when we came across Benicassim on the Costa Azahar (no - we never heard of it either). It was still very Spanish and too far from Easyjet or Ryanair to have been overtaken by foreign tourists. However it has been discovered by over wintering European motorhomers.

The Bonterra Park site was excellent, as was the resort, so we stayed four nights which included our wedding anniversary and we enjoyed 3 days of doing nothing very much except getting tanned and treated ourselves to a paella meal out. Although this was only in the site restaurant, it as very good and excellent value, which suited Rosemary just fine. I managed to fall over (nothing to do with wine) and bang my knee but nothing serious and his time the camera escaped intact. A can of diet coke was less fortunate and burst on impact.

Camping Altomira near Valencia

Final, longish (180mile) leg, of the journey back to the coast finds us 30km from Valencia in a wooded valley high above the small town of Navajos. We had time to sort out the plan for doing Costa Brava and to swap tales with some like-minded Brits from Poole in a small van conversion beside us. They are in Spain for 2 months like us and have spent most of their time in the Pyrenees where they have had quite a bit of wind and rain.  

Don Quixote country

The Andalusian countryside is very attractive with low mountain ranges and millions and millions of Olive trees.

Stayed in another even quieter site with just the sound of the birds and the bees and with one other couple. It was in the Sierra Alcaraz, which is in Don Quixote country and we had a look round some of the historical sites. The small pueblo 300m up hill from the site was typical Spanish.

North via Granada

Took off north and on route we bumped into the same couple of Brits for the third time right on top of a mountain. El Torcal has some interesting geological features like Bryce canyon in USA that make weird rock formations. It was also an interesting drive up to the summit to say the least.

We used part of the inland motorway system and spent a night just north of Granada on a quiet site by a lake with the snow capped Sierra Nevada in the background and huge carp splashing around in the lake and we even saw a turtle in the shallows. First encounter with giant ants - well bigger than English ones - in the sandy soil. No time for fishing unfortunately but we would not have been able to land anything we caught.

So off again and this time via the old N roads to cut off the Alicante - Costa Blanca coast, which we did not fancy. Hardly any cars on these roads and as we only cruise at about 60 there is no advantage in fighting the big lorries on the motorway . The Andalusian countryside is very attractive with low mountain ranges and millions and millions of Olive trees.

Costa del Sol

Spent a 3 enjoyable days on the Costa del Sol for bit of sun and relaxation. Its now very civilized with big campsites to choose from with pools, supermarkets, Internet cafes, expensive restaurants and many long term Brits. Rosemary still prefers home cooking and has just bought some huge prawns, a bag of mussels and is currently gutting a squid for me to barbecue later.

We have nice flowery pitch with our own little garden to look after!

We are 2025 miles and four weeks from home and just starting to head back north, more or less, on schedule to be back home in the middle of June. We have only had 10 minutes of rain since second day. Perfect!

Apes at the top of the rock

Went back in to Gibraltar for a days sight seeing and shopping. Marks and Spencer, Next and then the cable car to the top of the rock. Fantastic views, but a bit murky, so we could just about make out the  mountains in Africa above the heat haze.

Lots of monkeys, or are they apes, around the cafe hunting for food scraps and posing for photographs. The rest were just crashed out in the trees. It was hot.

We bought some English things like bacon, red Leicester cheese and fresh English milk.

Gibraltar

Off to Gibraltar via Jerez, which was a none event and we went round the ring road at least twice I think.
Arrived at the customs late afternoon - what a bizarre change. A completely out of place bit of England at the bottom of Spain! But what an impressive sight - no wonder we do not want to give it up. The rock towers above the surrounding area and dominates the entrance to the Mediterranean. We soon found ourselves in a Safeway supermarket car park, having flashed our British passports at the border, and suddenly we are back in the UK. Everything you would find in Morrisson’s and paid in pounds sterling. I had two blueberry muffins and coffee while Rosemary shopped.

Obviously we would need to spend at least a day here so started to look at campsite books while waiting for a Monach airlines plane to land. The runway goes across the road so all traffic is halted for about 15 mins while planes take off. Noticed the tell tale signs off a few motorhomes at the back of a car park just by the border fence. I found it was a car park that also did 24 hour sleep overs for motorhomes and long distance lorries for €13 so we paid our money and had a perfect position right beside the floodlit rock for our barbeque.

Seville

We left the strange world of El Rocio for a short drive to Seville for some more traditional culture. We found a convenient site in what used to be an old monastery at Dos Hamanas. It has been sold to developers so was a bit run down, but Ok for a couple of nights. Rosemary was bombarded with seeds dropped by bats from the tree that we were parked under. We took the 30min-bus trip from outside the site into Seville.

It was very hot almost 38deg but we still managed to do most of the sites, the moorish Alcahza, huge cathedral (Christopher Columbus buried here - allegedly) and walking up the Giraldi tower which has 160 ramps to the top. Cooled off in Santa Lucia gardens and had late lunch before returning to site.

It was over 30 deg in the van until after midnight. An English couple were long terming on the site with young children, must be horrendous in mid summer. The high walls make the site into a pizza oven.

El Rocio - wild west of Spain

Left Portugal on Friday intending to go to Seville, but were told we must go to a place called El Rocio so after spending the first night back in Spain on a nice beach site at Isla Christina we went there for the weekend. It has a campsite on the edge of town.

El Rocio is a weird mix of weekend retreat, religious pilgrimage site and a Wild West town with a weekday population of a few hundred. All the 'roads' are sand and shingle (no problem with double yellow lines here) and people ride by on horses, in 4x4, pickup truck, pony and trap or anything. There is the occasional gunshot and we found a load of 12 bore cartridges just scattered in the main street. The following week the place would be invaded by tens of thousands of people to witness/join a procession carrying an image of the Virgin Mary from from the church El Rocio to the nearby town of Admonte to celebrate some miracle or other.

The reason for being so strange is that it is very cheap area and thousands of Sevillians(?) have weekend apartments so it just goes mad at the weekend. Its also on the edge of nature reserve and not far from coast so its much cooler in summer - but its the strangest place we have ever been.

Southern coast of Portugal

Out of the Algarve now and heading towards the Spanish border. We had two free nights on two beach side parking areas which were much quieter and nicer. You meet some interesting people at these places - some have been there for months for nothing!

We shared one site with a JCB as it was being used as a builders yard, but it is was only 100yds from the little harbour. We bought some peas and potatoes from a wrinkled old man who brings his produce down to sell in a trolley on the back of a bicycle.  I spent an hour shelling peas one afternoon.

Algarve at Playa de Luz

After a couple of days chilling out at Sagres we moved east towards the Algarve and stayed at Luz, just outside Lagos. Walked down to the beach and could have been at Torquay - English people everywhere, all day breakfasts – even 'genuine' Cornish pasties at one restaurant.

It was a bit of a shock after several weeks in real Portugal and so we decided to move on ASAP.

We had a look round Lagos before moving on and bought some more strange fish to grill and topped up the wine store at a big Intermarche supermarket. Only 90cents for 1 litre box and its fine with the BBQ.

luz

Sagres - the end of the world

Very windy site but we managed to barbeque the fish bought earlier in Porto Covo, later found these are called horse mackerel. Lots of fit surfers and bikers on this site – we got a few funny looks.

Next day Rosemary stayed and did some ‘house work’ while I walked the 4 miles to Cabo de San Vincent lighthouse which is the most south westerly point in Europe and considered to be the end of the world until 16th century (and I have got the T-shirt to prove it).

This is the furthest distance, as the crow flies and there were quite a lot of these at the lighthouse, we have been from Leicester.

Porto Covo

Stopped at Port Covo in a cliff top car park, very popular with motorhomes, for the night. Nice secluded coves, crashing waves and attractive village where we did a bit of cheap market shopping before completing the hop down to the Western end of the Algarve at Sagres.

Lisbon from Quincho

Stayed at a beach site near Cascais/Lisbon so that we could see a bit of old Lisbon water front. The Belem tower, war memorial and 25th April Bridge are all in same area.

We spent a couple of hours here and had a coffee and cake before deciding to try and escape the traffic. Took a couple of goes crossing the bridge in the now very busy Friday afternoon motorway traffic. Once out of the suburbs the motorway cleared as we put in about 120 miles to get halfway towards the Algarve.  

Capo do Roca

Made for the coast again just outside Lisbon, sand dunes and Atlantic breakers and every nationality in Europe all around us. Made a visit to nearby Capo do Roca and its lighthouse (the most Westerly point in Europe) which was surrounded by Japanese tourist taking 'compulsory' pictures of each other by the landmark.

I managed to get a space to have my photo taken.

Balael

Stayed overnight on 'free' car park site overlooking pretty seaside village of Baleal and took some sunset pictures.

Seaside at Nazarre

horse mackerel drying in the sun

Made it to the coast at Nazare for bank holiday weekend. It’s a typical old fishing village and a popular local seaside resort mid away between Porto and Lisbon. An interesting mix of old and new and at the holiday weekend it was quite busy. The friendly Portuguese neighbours bought us some fresh sardines cos we could only find frozen ones. Campsite is a mile from beach and high up in the hills - a good invigorating walk! Bumped into some more Brits - unusual round here - bathing poodles in washing up sink - very unusual.

Treated ourselves to Sunday lunch, a delicious sea food 'stew' of shellfish and a nice bottle of Vinho Verde. Portugese owners just started business after moving back to Portugal from Stevenage!   

Stayed for 3 nights for some beaching, washing and to avoid the holiday traffic then off towards Lisbon for a fleeting visit shopping in the local market on the way. Weather is perfect for us, still very sunny and not too hot, both starting to get a tan. The diesel, food and wine are all very cheap.

Bathala the ancient capital

We left early to go back to coast again a bit further south stopping off Batalha which is original capital city of Portugal. It has a monastery which is part church, part museum and part national  monument to the unknown soldiers who died in WW1 and WW2. We have never heard of it before but is a very impressive structure which took over 200 years to complete. King Henry the navigator and many other kings are buried here.

Fatima - an amazing catholic experience

We moved inland again to spend a day in Fatima the big catholic pilgrimage site in Portugal, which is very impressive. The main square will have upto 1 million people on the main religious date of 13 May which celebrates when some local children first saw the vision of the Virgin Mary.

Pilgrims demonstrate their humility by crawling the whole length of the square and then 3 times round the church. There old men in their 80's to young mothers carrying babies.

Masses take place all day and we joined in the candle light procession round the square then stayed overnight on the huge car park with other assorted motorhomes including one big British one.

The Atlantic beaches

Super site in pine forest, 500m from miles of deserted beach. Another barbeque, bottle of wine and lulled off to sleep by sound of the Atlantic breakers in the distance. Took photos of Mr and Mrs Duck (easter eggs) on the beach this morning - but now they have melted.

Atlantic coast here we come

Stopped off at Coimbra, an old university town built on a hill, for some sightseeing on the way to the coast. Gladys (our sat nav system) tried to send us the wrong way down a one way street – much tooting of horns - but we got away with it unscathed. Temperature hit 92 deg in van despite being parked in the shade for much of the time. It was much more pleasant when we reached the Atlantic coast at Quieros with a nice sea breeze.

Viseu

Spent 2 days in Viseu our first Portugese campsite, it was a bit like like Buxton, and enjoyed the local 25th April Liberation Day celebrations in the market square. Its getting warmer, exposed knees to the sun for first time and had a couple of barbeques.

Never heard such loud crickets or barking dogs.

Portugal border

Drove into Portugal via the mountains, there are some serious hills even on the main roads, 2 miles of 1 in 10 made the van sweat a bit.

Salamanca

We stopped overnight just outside Salamanca and took the 1€ bus into the beautiful old town on Sunday. We walked around and had tapas and a coffee in the square. David Beckham was playing for Real Madrid and we saw him on TV in a bar. the old town

Heading South

Saturday was fine again and we left on longest leg of 200 miles thru mountians to small town 50m north of Salamanca on river Douro. Soon found that our GPS software had a problem when we went thru a new tunnel in the mountains. As it did not know about the tunnel and lost GPs signal at the same time it decided to route us back where we started. Walked into town and felt completely out of place in shorts and tee shirt as locals are still in jeans and two sweaters. It was obviously not on the tourist route and we attracted many disbelieving stares.  

Noja for a few nochas

Had a smooth crossing from Plymouth and landed in Santander at 9:00am on Wednesday. Made for Noja where we have stayed before and we were on the beach by midday. All too easy so far - left Croft on Tuesday in drizzle and were lying on the beach Thursday in warm sunshine.

Unfortunately it then p***ed down with rain most of Friday, but it gave us a chance to buy some prawns and wine from the site supermarket, sort out some routes and get the Spanish mobile registered. As it turned out this was the last rain we were to see for 4 weeks.

Brittany Ferry to Spain

We left on the Pont Aven overnight ferry bound for Santander on Wednesday morning. The Twurp was fully equipped for a long trip south including a small house plant called Katie and two chocolate Easter ducklings from Jill.

Obidos and Sintra

Another bit of culture at Obidos a very attractive walled town of cobbled streets and old world charm, and close enough to Lisbon for American tourists. Sintra is also a major tourist attraction but not very motorhome friendly due to steep hills and windy roads. Somehow we missed the main car park and ended up in a tiny 'car' park in the old quarter down steep windy cobbled streets. Needed more time to appreciate Sintra but we have got a bit 'cultured out' now.