Nice couple of days at the reservoir, which turned out to cost us just 4.60 euros per night, with 5 star showers. We are doing a bit of culture stopping at aires on route. Its really hot now, 95+, according to friendly long term brit with dog, Kate, at Ortiga. Tomar has a Knights Templar castle and ruined convent on the hill over looking the old town. Interesting, but I got a bit 'cloisered out' eventually, Rosemary met Irish lady with young son to exchange views on education system and keep her happy. Parked up in market car park (potential stop over) and went walk-about to find English newspaper. Nice coffee break on hotel terrace on an island in the river, to start the paper and returned to find van surrounded by market holders lorries. Plan B - beat hasty 'short' retreat to Fatima for the night. Bit too hasty, missed turn to the main road. But it looked like we were on the old route - at first that is, but by the time we got to a village called Chaos, literally, I d...