roemin around

Another even longer drive of 250 miles has taken us within 180 miles of Calais. Started looking for aires at about 6pm and found a very likely candidate outside a fire station near an oldy worldy village called La Sap. Just about to 'settle in' when the firemen (and women) came out and started doing circuit training along side the parking area accompanied by music from a portable CD player.- 'time to go said Zebedee'. Found an even nicer village 20km further on called Broglie with an aire on the site of an old railway station. The station buildings are now refurbished as the local library and the goods yard is a landscaped aire for 8 camping cars. Very nice for 5 euros, has security guard, toilets, water and just a short stroll for fresh bread in the morning, with friendly neverlanders and french motorhomers for company as a bonus. However, its a bit cool this evening. I think we must be getting close to England.

Had a fairly long drive to the Vendee to a camping cheque site called La Yole near St Jean de Monts. A very British style site with Canvas Holidays, Keycamp and Eurocamp all well represented, not to mention those independents who had booked with Caravan Club. Rosemary bought an English newspaper from the site shop and so a Thai chicken curry cooked on 'the jamie' did not seem out of place. The walk to the beach and back was just 'back to back' campsites of a similar nature, although most seemed empty. Every other voice was British but at least there were no full English breakfast signs or Cornish pasties in evidence. The area has changed a bit since we bought Mark and Katie here when they were young 30 years ago.

Walked into Le Chateau (the name of local village) along the coast road despite it being nominal 2.5 km away and a hot day. By the time we looked at its ruined chateau, the port and the market we had done over 6 km. Even had a 'quel courage' from french neighbors who we saw cycling in both directions! But we did get some sardines and mussels to cook/bbq and the pool was warm and the beer was cool! Next day we decided to drive round the Island to the lighthouse and La Cotiere a pretty fishing village which was heaving with weekenders having sea food lunches. Stopped on the island for a final night at The Remparts, an aire type camping site on the outskirts of the Le Chateau which was 99% motorhomes.

We chose to stay on the Ile de Oleron for the weekend and made for the camping cheque site (La Bande) via the coast road thru tiny villages and ports. The ports are now mostly for pleasure use and each one had a very good motorhome aire along side its small marina. Noted for future journeys! Arrived at site during lunch hour so went off for a snack and had a most interesting lunch experience. The nearby oyster and mussel 'producture' has a small restaurant cooking mussles the 'aglade' style. This involves arranging lots of mussels on a square plank covered in foil then covering the mussels with pine needles and twigs. The whole lot is then set on fire (with blow lamp!) and when it goes out the mussels are cooked. We had to try these of course with some frites and wine. Very nice but blew the Sunday lunch budget (maybe). Eventually returned to the site and found a nice pitch with sun and shade for the weekend. It has free wifi and I am sitting writing this in the warm su...

Did not have any luck fishing in Beauville. It was a nice lake but too big and deep unless you have the time and bait to tackle it properly. So we decided to move a day early and make the most of a rather grey day to chase the forecast sun to the coast over the weekend. Rosemary found a really nice aire on the municipal picnic area in a small village on the Gironde and we had it to ourselves. Right next to the village 'minimarket' too - so very convenient. To get there we had a pleasant, long, drive thru the Lot region (Agen, Villeneuve sur Lot) and then down the Dordogne from Bergerac to the Gironde estuary. I walked down to the old water mill to stretch my legs. It was 1.5km thru the woods and same back along road later. Both sides of the road had fields full of either sweet corn or sun flower plants. It would be quite a sight later in year.

Made friends with Gladys again once we were near our intended stop at Les 2 Lacs for a couple of days fishing. However when we still going up a steep hill and she announced we were 1 km from our destination doubts returned. Lakes are not normally on hills. But sure enough we arrived at the camp site entrance 500m from the village as described and then all become clear. The camping is at the bottom of a very steep winding hill in a lovely sheltered valley another 500m from the entrance. There we were on our own (how many more times do I have to write that) but quickly become acquainted with the dutch owners in the restaurant/reception which has been built between the swimming lake and fishing lake. Apparently this was becoming a popular leisure destination with locals including Brits who live in the area. We had a lunch time bbq so I could have an evening fishing. The lakes are also home to hundreds of frogs and I have never heard so much noise as soon as it gets dark. I think it goes o...

After leaving Sarlat we picnicked on the way to Rocamadour which Mike fancied seeing before we left the Dordogne area. We arrived late afternoon at the top of the canyon (with Margaret navigating again - GPS not to be trusted) where the chateau, sanctuaries and old Cite are stacked on top of each other clinging to the side of the canyon. As it was our last night before parting we had dinner at a restaurant with a sublime view over looking the site. The flood lights even came on to complete the picture as we finished our meal. We decided to have regional specialty menu which consisted of turkey giblets salad with walnuts and pate followed by duck and chips, goats cheese and ice cream. It sounds much better in French of course and was actually very nice indeed. The next morning we said our farewells to Mike and Margaret and they departed for a long drive to the Loire valley 'to do chateaus' on the way home. We were not going so far and decided to go down to the car park at the b...