Back home again

The weather was poor on Thursday and with a holiday weekend looming we decided to just drive straight back and arrived home just after 6pm. Had to stop twice to empty the water out of my foot well. It only seems to happen when driving in torrential rain but I must investigate to try and find where it is getting in.

Just checked the mileage and we did 1900 miles on the trip, about 500 of which was in England and Wales.   We were away for 5 weeks altogether, 4 of those were in Ireland. We stopped at 17 different campsites in Ireland,  3 in Wales and we had 2 free nights at Glendalough and a Britstop on the Wye.

Another day in Carmarthen

Jean walked to the site and then we met Alan and Josh to drive down to the beach. Walked around a bit and had another paddle. Then we went into Carmarthen again for a meal in the Harvester restaurant as a treat for everyone who had a birthday or anniversary to celebrate. That was all of us, Josh is 21 next week.

Ferry Bound

Coast near Rosslare

Both alarm clocks worked so we made it to the ferry at Rosslare  in plenty of time. The checkin lady put us in the wrong waiting lane and we were about to be loaded onto a Stenaline ferry. Fortunately we noticed we were heading in the wrong direction and a bit of cone moving fixed the problem and we were soon aboard Irish ferries and enjoying another flat calm crossing. It was sunny in the Irish sea but pouring with rain by the time we arrived in Pembroke. We are stopping at Pembrey to see Jean for a couple of days.

Waterford

Well it rained continuously from 2pm yesterday until 2am this morning. Too far for UK TV and Irish TV is all politics, with elections this weekend. We watched our emergency DVD Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy last night.

Typical Vikings !!!

Today we are on our way to catch the ferry at Rosslare tomorrow morning. We had a quick look at Dunmore East, that's all it needed, then we spent some time in the old part of Waterford. It was settled by the Vikings in 900 ish  and has been an important sea trading town ever since. Waterford was the only town in Ireland not to be ravaged by Oliver Cromwell and has a strong national identity. The Waterford crystal factory is a magnet for US tourists visiting the historical sites at Cork and New Ross so the prices seem to be set accordingly.

Waterford Glass showrooms

We stopped at New Ross again for lunch and ate in the bistros of a theatre/cinema that until 1960 was a
catholic church. It was quite bizarre, but the best value lunch we have had all holiday. Now on a small site on the coast just 15 mins from the ferry and need to get up at 7am - that's going to be a strain.

Kilmore Quay

The summer did not last long its 10deg cooler and rain forecast. Drove down to a fishing village on

south coast for a fishy Sunday lunch and to check out the free overnighting spots recommended by an Irish man we met. Very nice lunch and but it's raining again, as promised, so not a nice place for a free night. Next stop was going to be Waterford for some holiday shopping, so I put the destination in GPS and set off. Just rounding a bend when "in 400 metres turn left on R273 and board ferry".

Gladys (our GPS) had  planned a route via one of only two car ferries in Ireland. By now the option was to take the ferry to Passage East  or drive an extra 30 miles in the rain. Fortunately it crossed every 15 minutes even on Sunday so we took it!  We are spending the night at a Golf complex with campsite near Dunmore East, very posh toilet block. It's still raining, but at least my cold is getting better.

Morriscastle Strand

Dunes at Morriscastle Strand

Spending another night here and having a rest day to help shake off my cold. We found the easy way to walk to the beach where there were a few families on the sand and not much else. Its probably packed in the summer holidays as there are several large caravan sites with cabins and static caravans. Reminds me of the English east coast near Skegness. The weather is great so I may light the BBQ tonight. Its just like being on a summer holiday now!

I found that we could just about get a UK Freeview signal from one of the transmitters on the Welsh mainland about 30 miles away, so I watched the cup final until it was too late to eat outside. Arsenal won 3-2 after extra time.

Hugging the Coast

We are spending the last few days on the south-East coast. The weather now is just right. Blue skies, warm sun and a sea breeze.

Travelled down the coast road to Courtown Quay a nice harbour village and then the weekend shopping in Corey, a busy market town hosting an International sheep shearing competition.

Arrived early at Morriscastle Strand site where we picked a nice spot sheltered from the breeze and got all the outside furniture out and cooked some trout on the Jamie. We tried to walk to the beach over the sand dunes and gave up - they were much too steep.

Mountains and Coast

We enjoyed Kevin's hospitality and a good chat with the Irish motor-homer who loved our van. Then we drove up to the Wicklow Gap to admire the mountain views before heading for the east coast at Britas Bay. By now the sun was out, so on went the shorts for an Irish Sea paddle and to collect some shells on the almost deserted beach. We popped into Arklow town for some steak and salad and doubled back to another good 4* site at Redcross in the Wicklow mountains.

We got there just in time to cook the steak on
the Jamie (portable gas stove) and eat outside for the first time this trip. Good forecast for the next few
days too. Shocked to discover that it was Thursday when we checked in, we thought it was Wednesday!

Glendalough Heritage Site

Rosemary did some washing before we left the Hidden Valley site then we went to the famous monastery ruins at Glendalough, the second most visited tourist destination in Ireland. We have been here briefly before but spent more time today in the visitor centre learning about Saint Kevin who founded the original monastery. Then we did the 2 mile circular walk to the upper lake in the picturesque valley. Glen-da-lough means valley of two lakes.

It's a pity about the weather, last night's clear skies have turned into dull overcast, but at least it has not rained.

We are stopping overnight in the large wooded parking area with Irish and Austrian motorhomes. It's free, Rosemary loves it!

Man versus Fish - round three

It hasn't rained at all today! We spent most of the day at a trout lake at Annemoe and at last I have caught a fish with my fly rod. It was a beautiful 3lb rainbow trout and as it was too big to cook in the van or the BBQ I had to put it back! That was the only fish I landed as another pulled the hook from the line (my fault) and I lost several flies (my faulty again). 

Man 2 - Fish 2  - Flies 5.

It was a very picturesque lake and we enjoyed the day in the sunshine. We have moved a little way south now to Rathdrum, another nice site by the river, hoping for another dry day.

Wicklow Jail

I walked into the village to get the morning paper (just like being at home) and bought some croissants back for breakfast.

Then we went directly to Wicklow jail visitor centre, it has a well presented history of the county jail and some of its infamous residents since the 1700's. We even had a light lunch in the prisoners cafe before walking down to the quay where fishing boats land lots of welks from the  Irish sea. They are processed locally and then exported to Korea. Rosemary bought some fresh sea trout from a shop on the quay which we had with sea bass for supper. There were Netherlanders and Germans for company on the  site when we got back. It rained again!

Roundwood caravan site

The site is excellent and the owner very knowledgeable and helpful. We have real hard standings instead of a patch of gravel in a large puddle (last site at Mountshannon) with a view to the mountains and nearby reservoir. Its Sunday and a rest day except for a 10 minute walk into the village for Sunday lunch. Roundwood is actually the highest village in Ireland, although only 240m asl, so we ate at the second highest pub in Ireland (the highest was just over the road). Daniel Day Lewis has a house here overlooking the reservoir.

 There we sat in leather seats, by a wood burning stove, in an award winning gastro-pub - this is more like it! The lunch was substantial, to say the least, but we walked a little bit off by going down to the reservoir on the way back to the site. Rest of the day was spent on Sunday papers (Rosemary) and copying photos to the netbook (me). If it stays dry (the sun is actually shining occasionally then maybe another walk to the village tonight, although it is cool in the the breeze.

I don't think the temperature has been above 16 deg since we came to Ireland. So no barbeques, no breakfast outside and no shorts - but we live in hope! We intend to stay here another couple of nights to go to Wicklow and a trout fishing lake for round three of Man v Fish.  

Loch Derg to Wicklow

We have had enough wind and rain in the Shannon waterways  so we heading East after finishing the tour of Loch Derg by going round the southern tip. We stopped off at Kilacoe enroute for an excellent coffee and cakes in a French cafe. This part of the Loch is less bleak than the northern lochs, more like our own lake district or Derbyshire. We went up the East coast of the Loch as far north as Dromineer, which has a large pleasure boat/cruising marina and was very quiet for a weekend. Hopefully just out of season or bad weather or the Irish tourist industry has a problem.

We joined the M7 to head towards Dublin to do some quick miles, in more pouring rain, before turning off south east through the Wicklow mountains to a campsite at Roundwood. The GPS took us over the Sally Gap, a narrow mountain road with few laybys (and not much traffic fortunately) , which in the weather conditions, was quite interesting. We had everything from hail storms to rainbows in the 20 miles. I managed to find a few spots to take photos of swollen streams tumbling down the mountains but the scenery would be much better in good weather.

Man versus Fish - round two

Amazing. Not a cloud in the sky to start the day, but the first shower had kicked in by 10 and they continue all day. Too windy for fly fishing from the shore but not for spinning. This time I caught a pike, a tiny specimen by pike standards at 18", but my first ever. Man 1 - Fish 1.  There are a pair of rare white tailed eagles on Bushy Island which is just off shore from where we are pitched. I spotted them with binoculars this afternoon but they are too far away for a decent photo.

A couple of trout fisherman walk past our pitch on their way from the boats to the caravans. They are drenched, this is not my sort of fishing. An Irishman on a small (25ft'ish) sailing boat boat in the sites small 'marina' caught an eel - definitely not Rosemarys sort of fish!

Loch Derg

Left Loch Ree  and drove south crossing the River Shannon twice, at Shannon Bridge and Shannon Harbour. We stopped at Clonmacnoise an important religious site on the Shannon since 900AD with many well preserved celtic crosses. Several tourist busses in the car park and the sun even came out briefly here. Next was the northern point of Loch Derg at Portuna where the Shannon joins. We finally reached our weekend destination, Lakeside caravan site, at Mountshannon. A really well laid out site with wooded clearings and lakeside (Loch) pitches. We chose the latter and are currently being battered by rain and strong winds off the Loch. Hope to do a bit of fishing if the weather will allow. Rosemary made a fish pie without using an oven. Another gastronomic first.

Loch Ree

Well it's raining on and off again, so we are off again. Went into Athlone, a large town with a shopping centre. I had a Costa coffee while Rosemary shopped at Tesco. Then we parked by the castle and had crepes at a small cafe and did the tour round the castle. Very informative multimedia history of Athlone and the castle. Drove north along the west shore of Loch Ree to Galey Bay site. This was to be my first go at fly fishing. Just man versus fish and the fish won! Well at least I had an hours casting practice, until I broke my fly and it rained again.

Burren and Loch Ree

Drove around the Burren after leaving Doolin and on to Loch Ree just skirting Galway. Took the M6 to Athlone and did it rain! The small site on shores of Loch Ree was awash but we found a bit of hardstanding and it eventually stopped raining. I was determined to do a bit of fishing but not for long, it was cold and windy. A local fisherman told me about the how poor the fishing has become - not what I wanted to hear. Zebra mussels are eating all the plankton and Poles are catching/netting and eating all the fish!

Goodbye Killarney - hello Doolin

While the UK has been basking in sunshine, rain and low cloud has been sweeping in off the Atlantic since Friday, spoiling the local holiday weekend here. We have moved north today to Doolin on the wild west coast close to the famous Cliffs of Mohar, so more rain no doubt.

Doolin is the Irish folk music capital so we went to Fitzpatricks Bar for a Guinness and enjoy some folk music in the bar. First session was a solo singer with guitar and later a typical scratch group of friends (8) with a couple of fiddles, accordion, flute and assorted instruments. Very enjoyable for an or two but it got very crowded later.

Muckross House

We took the van out to the Muckross Estate and had guided tour of the house (rather boring). The roast beef Sunday lunch was excellent and we strolled a bit of it off in the gardens which were much more interesting. However it was a rather murky day with a cool wind off the lakes so we returned to site mid afternoon after a brief stop at Ross Castle. Evening watching a bit of English TV and blogging. Hope weather is better tomorrow, can hardly see the mountains today!

Walk to Killarney

The morning started with soft rain, the sort you cannot see or feel but soaks you anyway. It dried up later so we walked into Killarney. It's a  pleasant touristy town with lots of bars, an imposing catholic cathedral and a friary. Not to mention a fleet of jaunting carriages to wisk you off to the nearby attractions in the park. It was the weekend of The Rally of the Lakes so lots of noisy boy racers in town and various road closures in the national park. We tried to walk thru the Killarney House gardens but they were closed due to the damage from fallen trees in a big storm a few  weeks ago.  We walked about 5 miles overall and I got the satellite recriver working when we got back in the evening.

Killarney Weekend

Wild garlic near the site

Stopping for a few rest days (ie no touring) on a good site by the River Flesk in Killarney. We walked to a supermarket just before the rain started, just steady Irish rain today. Downloaded some photos from camera to netbook to add some colour to the blog over the next few days. Rosemary is preparing a Mediterranean meze meal to compensate for the weather. I may try and get the satellite kit working tomorrow, if it is still wet.

The Beara and Killarney

It absolutely bucketed down last night, but it has brightened up a bit this morning to have look at Glengarriff. Then we drove the south leg of the Beara peninsula to the fishing port of Castletownbere where we brought some very fresh haddock for dinner. Then drove between the mountains and back along the rugged north coast to Kenmare. From here the N71 has a long winding ascent to Molls Gap where it becomes the eastern leg of the Ring of Kerry.


The descent from here is something special, winding down through the forest full of bluebells beside the Lakes of Killarney  National park. Stopped briefly at Ladies View for photos and then again at Torc Falls. Found a very good site for 4 nights over the bank holiday that is half hour walk from Killarney. No TV (yet) but good WiFi and showers.