Going Home on Fathers day

Arrived at the port in plenty of time to catch one of the big new P&O ferries. Had a proper English bacon sandwich before it docked in Dover at midday and we drove straight back to Leicester stopping en route at Toddington services  where Mark and Christina met us for a burger. Its the first time in about 10 years that I have been in England on Fathers Day so it was rare treat to see one of the family on this particular day.

We were back in Croft by about 6:30 to start unpacking the van.

Last day

It was a very wild night of wind and heavy showers. But not wild enough to blow my satellite dish over (thats another story). The morning was still windy, but at least it was dry so I took the van out for a final day drive. Battled down the coast road, from Cap Blanc Nez to Cap Gris Nez and had moules and frites in one of the villages in between. Watched the procession of ferries in and out of Calais where they are close in-shore at Fort Mahon.

Done the last bit of wine shopping/stowing and now ready for off in the morning and on Fathers day.

France

Another grey day so I decided to go almost as far as Calais and stay for 2 nights on an ACSI site at Guines rather than stop on the quay for the last night. Guines is only 10km from Calais so easy to get to the morning ferry. The site is almost 100% British with people either coming or going to the ferry. The layout and hedges would not be out of place at the caravan club! Not so sure about the gourmet restaurant.


My 'Shrimp' ground level dish managed to get a signal thru the trees where many big motor homes with their roof mounted 'Oyster' satellite dishes failed because of the tall trees surrounding most pitches :-)

 We are still on Luxembourg diesel - so thats 3 countries on one tankfull and still enough to get to Dover.

Three countries a day

Left Germany and filled up with deisel at only £1 per litre and then we spent the day travelling thru Luxembourg and Belgium to the French border. The weather was not very good, with a couple of torrential downpours, so it was a good opportunity to drive over 200 miles closer to Calais.      

We stayed on a small campsite near the water sports centre at Tourain for the night. We had stayed on this site a few years ago returning from Italy but did not realise until we arrived there. The owner had a rare sense of humour - for a Belgian!

Luxembourg

Spent a little time on the Wine Strasse, visiting the site of another Ludwig residence and shopped in the local supermarket for some wine to bring back from the region. Then we put in a few (150) miles on the autobahns crossing the Mosel near Trier where we had been almost 4 weeks before and spending 2 nights on a camping cheque site on the Luxemburg border.

There was a big Hymer rally on the site and the washing machines were free!

The campsite is in Germany but we walked to Luxembourg, to Echternauch, across the bridge over the river Saar and had a Chinese buffet lunch. We discovered we were just one day late to witness the 'famous' dancing procession. This is a catholic church procession, the archbishop of Luxembourg was there, but it reads more like a Monty Python sketch in the visitors guide. We had a barbeque and watched The Apprentice on satellite later.

Cuckoo Land

We left Titisee and drove north along part of the Uhen Strasse (clock route) which passses thru many small towns and villages associated with cuckoo clock manufacturing. The Cuckoo capital is Triberg so we stopped there and looked around 'the shop of 1000 clocks'. There were some very impressive clocks, not all cuckoo, at some very impressive prices. I picked up a genuine hand carved door for 1.50 euro, so just need and cuckoo and a clock mechanism now!

The highest waterfall in Germany is nearby and was worth a brief stop before continuing north along some pretty river valleys, more like peak district now, before emerging on autobahn system to get round Karlsruhr. The roads were actually very quiet because it was a public holiday and we made good time to Landau  which is on the edge of the Rhein-Platz wine region. We found a small family run camper stop with 5 places, like a CL, at a Weingut (vine yard) in the village of Fellingden. Not touristy, bit of a language problem but we got by. The whole village seemed be vine yards and cellars.

We were sitting outside after cooking a meal when we noticed one or two large flying things that looked rather like bees. Before long we were surrounded by dozens of what turned out to be harmless but rather alarming, when they flew near you, beetles about 10 times the size of ladybird. They stayed around for about half an hour and disappeared as quickly as they had appeared. We think they either buried themselves in the ground or hid in the grass. The German couple who were sharing the camper stop, explained that this happened in June in this area. We found a dormant one in the van later and took its photo for the record and for googling.

Railway Away Day

One of the benefits of a vacation in the Black Forest area is free public transport which includes the railways. So today we walked the mile or so into Titisee along the east shore of the lake, dodging mountain  bikes and other walkers, in both directions. It's a popular walk! Titisee was very crowded with week-enders and people coming to the recently opened Badenparadise which sounds like a huge centre parks water park all under one roof.

After a modest Sunday lunch, featuring 'fresh local mushrooms', we then caught the train to Frieburg and enjoyed a very scenic return trip in a double decker carriage. We stayed on the train passing thru Titisee to another activity lake at Shluchsee, where we stopped for a coffee and gateau of the black forest variety, before returning and catching a bus back to the campsite. It was a very pleasant afternoon for both of us to see the scenery which is often missed when we are driving and it cost absolutely nothing. What a good idea!!!

Packing up tonite so that we can get away reasonable early tomorrow and see some more of the northern part of the forest and the cuckoo clock factories, whilst getting some miles in towards Calais.

Black Forest

It was very cold last night, had to put heater on for a while. Spent the morning sorting out the satellite receiver, catching up with emails and blogging. We now get the full Freesat channels again. Walked down to Lake Titisee and had a look at the alternative ACSI camp site which is on the shore. Watched a bit of English TV.  Had some late afternoon sun and cooked outside again.

Swiss Falls

After leaving Friedrichshafen we detoured into Switzerland to go and see the Rheinfalls. The source of the Rhine is in Switzerland  and follows the German border as far as Basel, then turns north to follow the border between Germany and France. At Schafenhausen in Switzerland the Rhine flows over the largest waterfall in Europe, a sight which attracts a lot of tourists. It was a lovely sunny day and so we spent a couple of hours wandering around and had some lunch overlooking the falls. Katies Lindt easter bunny had returned home for a photo opportunity. After lunch we headed north to the Black Forest for the weekend. Selected an ACSI site near Titisee, a small lake surrounded by forested hills. A bit like being on a site in the Lake District, including the weather which has turned cool and overcast again.

A wet Bodensee

Well its turned out to be rather wet for the last few days. The view over to the Swiss Alps is still non- existent.  We did walk into town yesterday and visit the Zepplin Museum, which was rather interesting despite the language problem, but today we are confined to the van.

Long distance airship travel was a remarkable achievement for its time and was a great technology driver just like the space programs of our generation. The passengers, typically outnumber 2 to 1 by crew, enjoyed a very high level of luxury on the transatlantic and south American routes, with Freidricshsafen and Count Von Zepplin world centres for long distant flight. Shame it all went up in flames with the Hindenburg disaster.

Rosemary cooked some of the local fish,  Bodensee Felden,  a bit like trout.

Nice interactive Google home page today to celebrate Les Paul's birthday in 1915.

Austrian detour

Had a quick look at the ski station and patted the friendly cows that were wearing huge brass bells around their necks. Then headed for Lake Constance via the Alpine Strasse scenic route (which was) until we were suddenly barred from going any further. Whilst studying maps for a detour realised that we were almost in Austria so decided to cross the border to the nearest village for coffee. Needless to say it was a nice ski resort called Tammien and had a good supermarket with cafe attached. So we did the food shopping for the next few days in Austria and then sat outside on cafe terrass enjoying the Tirolean scenery in the sunshine with a coffee and strawberry tart.

Lake Constance lies on the border between Switzerland and Germany and to the Germans it is known as Bodensee. So we found a small site right on the Bodensee shore close to the town of Freidrickshafen for three nights. Seems to be used mostly by motorhomes and has quite small pitches. Not ACSI or camping cheque, so its not very busy and there are no NL'ers.

Weather forecast is disappointingly cloudy and wet for the next few days.   The view over the lake to Switzerland and the Alps is just a murky blurr. The good news is that the satellite receiver is almost working again, but a marginal signal means some channels are OK (eg BBC news, ITV HD) but others (eg BBC1, 2) are breaking up. Wifi is 3 euros for the whole stay, cheaper than a shower a day!      

Castles in The Air

Two castles in one day today, but both in the same place at Schwangau in Bavaria. They are both associated with King Ludwig II, he grew up in one and built the other literally within sight (he even had a telescope installed to check progress!). A beautifully located and busy tourist destination with lots of Americans and Japanese in evidence.

We visited Castle Hofenschwangau first, a relatively easy climb up the hill and steps for a very informative guided tour by Pieter. This castle is still owned by the Dukes of Bavaria, although no longer occupied, and was the retreat for King Maximillian and Queen Mary. Their son Ludwig grew up here and dreamt of having his own castle, which he built just over the valley. It was never finished and he only occupied part of it for 120 days before his untimely (and suspicious) death.

Neuschwanstein is Ludwig's ultimate, fairy tale, fantasy castle with turretts and ostentatious decorations and paintings in tribute to his hero the composer Wagner. It sits on the side of a mountain and access is partly by foot and partly by either bus or horse drawn carriage,  or a 40 min hike up the mountain (which was not an option we considered). We took the shuttle bus to Marie's  bridge which overlooks a deep gorge with waterfall and then the 15min steep walk down to the castle. The guided tour takes in the parts of the castle that were completed on the 1st, 3rd and 5th floors. (Have not walked up and down so many steps for a long time). The tour was not as interesting, not helped by dim lighting, but Ludwig was certainly eccentric and had some amazing objects and fittings designed for his castle. One guide described him as the Michael Jackson of his time, there are certainly similarities in their flamboyant lives and the circumstances of their deaths.

We decided not to walk down the hill, but take the horse drawn carriage instead and in doing so avoided a drenching in a heavy shower. Another tiring but very absorbing day with loads more  photographs to sort out and guide books to read. Spent the night on a big stellpaltz by an Alpine  ski station at Nesselwang on route to a bit of rest and relaxation at Lake Constance. There were about 50 others, mostly large German motorhomes.

King Ludwig's palace

Spent most of Sunday at Lindorf Palace, built by Ludwig II in a grand french rocco style and now a well preserved and presented national treasure. Both the palace and its grounds are indeed very 'wunderbar' and the guided tour of the palace, which is quite small, was interesting. No photographs allowed inside but plenty to photograph outside as it is in a wonderful setting in the German Alps (its only a few miles to the Austrian border). We shared a 'Bayernteller' for Sunday lunch which comprised a selection of typical local dishes on a plate, served by the German equivalent of Manuel from Faulty Towers. It also came with a complimentary 'silly' Bavarian felt hat which Rosemary refuses to wear as yet. There is still some snow on the mountains and the lush green meadows are carpeted in wild flowers.

On leaving we drove a little further south to the ski resort and gateway to the German Alps of Garmish-Parmitschen and to Omerammergau of passion play fame. The former was very busy with weekend cars and motorbikes returning from Austria to join the Munich bound motorway. The delay caused us to get caught in a thunder storm as we were heading for our overnight stay in a big 'Camper's Stop' at Fussen.

Quite a long tiring day but well worth it.

Rottenbuch

Today we just walked into the village to see the church which has an absolutely breathtaking interior.

It is completely covered in magnificiant artwork and statues. Totally unexpected for such a simple looking church in a small village.

Its also hot today and we stopped in our first Biergarden and both had a pint (or 0.5l to be precise). The weather forecast was for thundery showers and we are now having one. Not putting off our friendly German neighbours, who are cooking large numbers of bratwurst under their reinforced Gazeebo.

There is a Netherlanders rally on this site. What would the campsites do without them at this time of the year.

Nordlingen

Walked into town in the evening and then again the this morning. It is the only town in Germany where it is possible to walk right round the almost perfectly circular old defensive walls. We did about a 150 degrees before descending and walking back into the centre which is dominated by St Jacobs church tower. Nordlingden is in the middle of a region called 'the Ries', that was created by a large meteorite impact.  

Stopped again at Donnerwach an old town built partly on an island where two rivers coverge. Met some Brits from Leeds on the MH parking area. It has a long main street of very elegant buildings now mostly shops, we did a bit of food shopping for later. There was a large Italien influence here with several pizza and pasta restaurants in the reconstructed pedestrialised area. Not as picturesque as previous stops,  or are we getting too critical!

As it was Friday afternoon we have put in a few miles on the Autobahn to get past Augsburg and stopped not far north of the Bavarian Alps. The landscape has changed to hills and distant mountains. The villages are looking like ski resorts and the houses look like cuckoo clocks. We are spending the weekend in a camp site at Rottenbuch. This is where the Romantische Strasse and Alpine Strasse cross and it has a church to view. But not until tomorrow - its BBQ time.

Rothenburg

We have been impressed by how clean and green Germany is. Every campsite and stellplatze has many recycling bins and they are well used. Many houses have large solar panels covering their roof and in some places there are fields full of panels - solar farms in fact.  

We are heading south today on the Romantische Strasse, a route with many interesting old towns to see. So no particular schedule, we will just stop in Stellpaltz's until we loose interest in old German towns.

First stop was Rothenburg, a very attractive old town with a brass band giving a concert in the market square, as we arrived. Quaint cobbled streets, churches, fountains, forts and nice eating places. We had pork for lunch with potatoe dumplings and red cabbage, Rosemary's pork hock was huge.

Rothenburg also has a permananent Christmas museum and shop which is massive. There must have been a thousand Christmas tree decorations, not to mention cuckoo clocks, Christmas toys and other goodies. Sometimes there's just too much choice!!!

There are a large number of bakery/shops selling Schneeballen, a
pastry with various fillings (eg chocolate) or the original just covered with icing sugar.  


just give one try

a bit crunchy

whats the matter?

Second stop we made at Dinkelsbuhl for a coffee break, another walled town with 15 watch towers and some splendid old buildings around the big church.Pulled in for the night at Nordlingen Stellplatz, a free one just outside the old city wall.

Answer :  A 'fingerhut' is a thimble.

Romantische Strasse

Not very Romantisch today! It rained heavily overnight and most of the today. Temperature has dropped about 25 degrees. Its washing and blogging time.      

Cannot get Astra 2D on my dish so using a lead from the communal dish on the reception building. Struggling to find an English channel - helps to pass the time in the rain. Perhaps my Shaun the Sheep DVD will get a play later.


BTW There is a 'fingerhut museum' just down the road! Can you guess what a 'fingerhut' is? Answer later.