Autumn trip to Wales

Another trip into Wales for my birthday.

A day late, but home again

We were caught in the traffic hold up on the A34 so diverted to a CCC site just outside Oxford for the night. The total holiday was 3078 miles of which 2770 were in France and Spain. A very successful holiday with lots oh highlights from snow balls in the Picos to pilgrims at Santiago to storks in Rioja, not to mention the Normandy beaches.

Pride of Bilbao home

We sailed back on the Pride of Bilbao trying to spot whales and dolphins.

We arrived early after a 1 1/4hrs drive and passed some of the the time chatting to a French couple. We treated ourselves to a club cabin which lived up to expectations with TV etc. I saw some dolphins from the cabin windows and more sea life later including a sea otter from the observation deck. The flat sea turned into a swell and white horses appeared. We had a doze before enjoying a good quality carvery.

It became a rather bumpy disturbed night but eventually fell asleep and awoke to thick fog and flat calm again. The club tickets included a rather splendid breakfast in the four seasons carvery, kidneys included. By the time we had duty free shopped and tested champagne in the posh lounge, it was time to strip the cabin of toiletries and fruit basket ready to disembark.

Return to Playa Joel

Our last site was the same as the first the relaxing site of Playa Joel near Noja. Its only a short drive to Bilbao for the return trip and we spent the last couple of days topping up the tan and paddling.

We were told it was possible to wade over to the neighbouring resort of Isla at low tide, so we did. Rosemary got her knickers wet in the process but it was a nice afternoon all the same and we return without further incidents.  

Guggenheim Museum

We called in to Bilbao to check where the ferry terminal is located and to look at the city's main tourist attraction which is the Guggenheim Museum. The city is also the biggest place on the north coast with a large sprawling port and industrial area. The motorway bypasses the main commercial areas for travellers heading along the north coast and it did not seem an attractive place.

The museum is a very modern construction in stainless steel and looks a bit like a whale. We looked around the outside with its huge floral displays, which was interesting enough, but did not go in the museum as it was rather expensive and we were short of time. Its a popular location for wedding photographs.  

Rioja country

After a fairly monotonous drive across the featureless plateau from Lugos to Burgos xxxx we descended into the Rioja wine growing area and headed for the capital Haro.  An open rather regimented site this but it did sell good cheap boxes of local wine at reception and was walking distance into the centre of town.

Santiago de Compostella

We walked into town along the last 2km of the pilgrim route. Rosemarys toes bled, was it a sign? We bought some plasters, the bleeding stopped, surely a miracle. But seriously its a humbling experience to mix with true pilgrims who have walked or cycled hundreds of miles just to be here.

We stopped at Igleas san Martin, on the route, amazing altars, too much to take in. Then we finally came upon the cathedral, its enormous as is the square . There was a long queue to go and kiss St James statue, we humbly joined. We encountered  a large group of Irish pilgrims who had walked 300km for an MS charity!

Had some lunch on the edge square under a large umbrella, it was hot. Pimentos de Padron and chiperones with a glass of cool white wine. Memorable day!

We left the site at 3:30 and drove 130 miles through Lugos until we found a place to stop at VillaFranca. Another miracle it was 8:30. The little van was sweating on the hills as it was chased by enormous articulated lorries.

Fossil Hunting at Collunga.

We stopped at a beach site where there are fossilized dinosaur tracks in the rocks along the beach. Well maybe there are but we struggled to find them.

It was very hot and we set off without any water, big mistake as we walked about 5 miles. Very interesting houses along the coast built on stilts keep animals and grain below.

Spanish arrived on site to set up for the weekend. Very limited hot water and facilities for the price but its location, location, location! Had a coffee in a hotel overlooking the beach.

Picos de Europa

We drove towards the cable car terminus at Fuete De but it was still miserable and we could not even see the end of the cable so after a coffe in the terminus building we drove back down the mountain road with a big tourist bus right on my tail. Tried to loose it by diverting up to a monastery but the bus followed still on my tail, 1700m up a 16% hill and the van loosing power rapidly, just made it.

We walked from the car park to the old hermitage where there was a panoramic view all around with Potes and our site 600ft down below. The sun was breaking through by now so stopped and had a picnic and watched the snow capped mountains appear through the clouds. Spectacular.

Lots of photos with eagles and vultures circling overhead. A most fortuitous diversion!

Leaving the coast for the mountains

After seeing the sights in Comillas, Gaudi stuff mostly, we went to St Vincent de la Barque a fishing town with large inlet and harbour. We had a nice lunch of rabas and prawns in the rain. Decided to drive into the mountains to see i it was drier. The Herbina pass is a deep narrow gorge where the sun does not reach in winter and opens out into the foothills of the mountains. We made for one of the sites at Potes, which was a bit like Buxton in Derbyshire where we stopped for coffe and a look round. Lots of beans for sale on the market its the staple die . Nice site, Isla de Europa,  with a pitch near the river with very friendly owners and it was dry for a while too.

Santillana del Mar

This is an attractive old village with a lots of tourists flocking around the shops and cafe which now occupy many of the old houses. In the past it was a desirable place to live for the wealthy locals. Its near the Altimira archaeological site which we also visited to see the cave art.

The site had quite big kerbs to drive over which was a bit of problem for my suspension.  Noisy with a school party when we pitched up and then a large German travelling bus which converts into sleeping accommodation for about 30 people arrived. The site was a little way out of town and a tiring walk back up the hill in the heat. But then the wind and low clouds appeared - end of sun bathing.

Wedding Anniversary

After a simple breakfast we walked through Noja to eastern side of town.  Rosemary found a new top from the market on the way, then we found two very Spanish beach restaurants and we did not have a dictionary. So we ordered some raciones (big tapas) with the help of the waitress and the cook! Not sure how or why we ordered razor clams, but they were memorable!

 There was a long walk back round the headland on the coastal path with little coves and pine trees, it was very pretty.

We have some Dutch neighbors, very close to us! Its even hotter today but a fresh breeze in the afternoon.

Had a camera free day!

Chilling out

Rosemary washed - while I watched it dry.

Missed lunch rock climbing and lying on beach. Suntan improving.

BBQ'ed prawns again. Getting warmer - no wind.

First day at Playa Joel

We walked into Noja for the first time to do some shopping but got a bit lost and spent 2hrs on a shopping trip.

Playa Joel is on a super sanding beach and we spent the afternoon there just chilling out and enjoying the warm sunshine. Vest, dongle and recently crafted shell necklace.

A few Brits arrived from the Santander ferry later but we do not have close neighbours as yet. The site is only about 25% full. The pool may be open for the season tomorrow, they have been jet washing it for two days. The showers and facilities hee are excellent.

Rosemary bought some big prawns and I BBQ them. Delicious with a bottle of local white wine.

Futurescope

We spent all day at the high tech theme park. There was a fantastic Imax and 3D space show based on the space station. An Atlantis virtual reality ride with simulated shaking and drops, very disorienting. We dined at an on-site restaurant €18 including wine.

I foolishly left my camera on a bench. It had been taken. I was distraught!

It was an expensive day in more ways than one, the was €31 entrance but worth it for the experience.

We stopped overnight on the huge camping car park for €2.

American and German Cemetry

We stopped for a while at Avorramanche where there is a panoramic view of the remains of the Mulberry Harbour and a 360 cinema experience. On to the American Omagha beach near Port de Blessin. There was tremendous contrast between the immaculately maintained white crosses in the American cemetery and the sombre black German ones nearby.

We had a BBQ with our neighbours, an American padre,  and I heard my first woodpecker.

Pegasus et le memorial

We looked around the Pegasus bridge which commemorates the first landing of gliders to start the liberation of France in WW2 and then on the the main memorial museum at Caen. It was expensive but very impressive and informative in English and French.

We shopped in outskirts of Bayeux and stayed over night at the smart Chateau de Martagny camp site.

Spain here we come

We set off to stay overnight near Winchester on route to the ferry at Portsmouth. The site is quite small but has a pub just outside the entrance that served overpriced and poor quality food. However it was in a convenient location and gave us plenty of time to get to the ferry in the morning. This is our first big trip to Europe and we wanted to get off to a relaxing start. Its the first leg on a "pilgrimage" to Santiago de Compostela  in northern Spain, driving through France and then back from Santander.

The journey to Santiago de Compostela begins

We left home at 2:00 pm to an overnight stop near Winchester prior to catching the ferry to Le Havre.

The 2005 pilgrimage

For our first trip to mainland Europe in the Twurp we decided to spend a month driving thru Western France before heading for the famous pilgrimage town of Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain with just a few camping cheques and an ACSI card and some good maps.

Although we had camped all over France with the children in the 70's and 80's we had not spent any time in Normandy, so this was our first goal and a very moving experience too. This was followed by a week 'chateauing' in the Loire valley, then  a few days on the holiday island of Ile-de-Re and a night on a Bordeaux vineyard, courtesy of France Passion before we hit the Spanish border.

Our first site was the popular Playa Joel, between Santander and Bilbao. This is an excellent base for exploring the northern coast and the Picos de Europe mountains, all within 30 miles of a ferry terminal and we found many Brits who do just that. The new motorway between the French border and Gijon is spectacular and FREE and a perfect way to access this suberb and unspoilt stretch of coast. Being wetter and cooler than southern Spain this is where the Spanish come in the summer while most of us Brits sizzle in the crowded Costas.

We enjoyed some wonderful sites both in the Picos and all along the coast where we picked up the old pilgrimage routes (now World heritage sites) to Santiago. It's a humbling experience to see pilgrims who have walked hundreds of miles to kiss St James (stone) head in the Cathedral, when we have just driven here. However its a busy place, with just one packed campsite, so time to head back east to Rioja country on the inland route via Leon and Burgos, another pilgrimage trail.

Just a long weekend to taste the wine, pack some in the Twurp, and we were back in Playa Joel for the last couple of days before the short drive to Bilbao to catch the ferry home to Portsmouth. A most enjoyable 7 weeks tour and hopefully the first of many.

Home again

We came back through Neath on the Heads of the Valleys road which is nice route in good weather and it was sunny.

Took a break in Tewkesbury and then continued to Winchmore CCC site for the night before returning home. This was a good run to check the van out before we embark on our big summer holiday.

Wales for few days

On our way to Wales to see Jean we stopped at Tregalen House site near Newport. We went down the Fosse Way instead of the motorways and had soup in the Cotswolds. It was dull and wet 146 miles.